Unlike the relocated, reconstructed buildings at Old World Wisconsin, Ontario's Fort William was from the ground up recreated
into the Canadian National Historic Site that it is. Not exactly on the Kaministiquia
River where it used to be, either. Small wonder. I've seen the waterfront on
Superior at Thunder Bay.
They handcraft genuine voyageur canoes inside that modest structure captured above. On reasonably sunny
days, the place is bathed in about the richest interior light I've ever seen. During
my first visit to Fort William some decades ago, I could hardly believe my eyes:
I love canoes in much the same way I love great light.
Specifically, I love my
canoe, a Nova Craft 'Bob
Special' purchased at the retail shop of the late legend, Ralph Frese. A blacksmith, environmentalist
and raconteur (among other things), Ralph was probably best known as a maker of
voyageur canoes.
A complex kinda guy, trust me. By the time I met him, Ralph's international reputation well established.
For much of my life I rented canoes as needed, mostly from Bob
Zelinski's Sylvania Outfitters. Heather & I ride one of Bob's old 18' Grumman aluminum beasts near to hell in The Bear Story.
Used to be, just over from the Outfitter's stood the Watersmeet version
of Stark's Cabins. Those came
down before I ever got to shoot them. There's also a colorful vignette about the sunny morning when waiting on Bob I met two aged backwoods Bingo ladies in half light. That
tale should probably be told, but I've digressed...
It was a long time before finally buying my own canoe and I picked the
best place I knew to do it. On the big day, Ralph Frese worked in his
blacksmith shop out back. As a salesman completed the paperwork, I dared wander over and introduce
myself to Ralph.
"I've wanted a canoe for thirty years and today is the day",
I said.
Ralph looked me up and down. He snuffed.
"Wasted thirty good years then, didn't 'ya."
Sometime later Ralph Frese and I discussed making a documentary about
the Fox River in Illinois. That didn't go far. In my experience, Ralph suffered
no fools.
The canoe makers at Fort William still practice old world craft in a
time-honored way. That they do it in a splendid working environment must be a
bonus.
During my latest visit to the workshop at Fort William, a craft master rather obliquely shared
with me his opinion of Ralph Frese. Turns out not everyone in the voyageur
world holds an unvarnished opinion of Ralph, ce' la vie.
I appreciated the man's honesty and additional insight into a legend I was privileged to know somewhat, almost as much as I appreciate both men's craft.
Winter's ending. Not so much in the Northwoods, but still. Long light grows shorter by the day. The inevitable turning is here.
This year on the prairie that means that though ice is out it's too stinking cold to indulge the canoe. Perhaps soon I'll suddenly find I'm too old for mine. That season's sure
to come. When it does there'll be nothing sudden about it, truth be told. We'll see.
Meanwhile, on a chilly sunny Thursday just a few days short of the
vernal equinox promising better days, here's to old world craft and old canoes. To cranky
old craftsmen, anxious old fishermen and luminous light.
Always, the luminous light. No surprise to me I found that in abundance, in an old
world canoe shop.
Also, to the memory of notable voyageur Ralph Frese and his once famous blacksmith/canoe shop.
There, a multi-story apartment project is now being completed. You can rent a
place on a bustling commercial street at twice monthly what years ago I once paid in
full, for my very own canoe.
Ralph was right.
I've done my best to make amends since, because life sans my canoe would've
proved too short...
